A City of Monuments

Serbia has had a long and difficult history. This nation has had to assert and rebuild itself many times during it's turbulent past. As a result, Serbian nationhood is defined as much by legends and myths as it is by very specific events and battles. This long proud history has produced centuries of heroes. As with any nation, these heroes are commemorated with monuments and Serbia itself has expressed its strength, pride, and prosperity in grand, architectural projects.

Helping the new teachers acquaint themselves with the city, the school arranged a city bus tour for all  of us, a tour that took us past many of the cities most important monuments. It was a good introduction to the city and helped us get our bearings. However, as our understanding of the city grew, we could better piece together all these monuments and their place in the story of Belgrade and Serbia. This all came full circle for us when visiting the very new Ada Mall near our home. Inside the Mall, the brick walls in the main atrium are covered by neon silhouettes of city landmarks, a collection of places upon which this city's story is written.

We begin at Trg Republike, the square at the heart of the city, even back to Roman and Celt times. The giant monument to Prince Mihailo at the center of the square honors the Serbian leader who expelled the last of the Turks from Serbia in the late 1800s, ending four centuries of Ottoman Rule.

Next is the Temple of St.Sava, dedicated to the founder of the Serbian Orthodox Church. It is one of the largest eastern Orthodox churches in the world and, in fact, one of the largest places of worship in the world. It symbolizes the value and power of the orthodox church in Serbia.

Standing tall, within the walls of the ancient Kalemegdan Fortress and overlooking the confluence of the Danube and Sava Rivers, the Victor Monument commemorates Serbia's victory over the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian Empires. The nude image was placed high on a tall pedastal as, originally, this form was controversial amongst Serbs.

Across the Danube is New Belgrade. Once marshland, this giant area has been transformed into an immense grid filled with Yugoslav era apartment blocks, modern office complexes, and malls. A symbol of New Belgrade, the Zepter Building is also symbol of the self-sufficiency, industry, and prosperity of Yugoslavia during Tito's rule.

Also in New Belgrade is the Museum of Contemporary Art, a modern building emblematic of Serbia's artistic spirit and welcoming of western culture and influence.

Back in old Belgrade, more churches.  Three churches in this group of recognized monuments speaks clearly of how important the Orthodox church is to Serbian identity.

The story of Belgrade, and Serbia, is not complete without nature. Belgrade quickly transitions from city to forest and green and Serbia is rich with beautiful natural wonders. Still in Belgrade, the Sava River Island of Ada has been transformed into Belgrade's playground and just south of the city is Mt.Avala on which stands Avala Tower, rebuilt after it's bombing during NATO strikes in the '90s -- a symbol of how Serbians will always rise back up when knocked down.